Food is fuel, but it’s also highly
emotional.
Our cravings can depend on everything
from our mood to the weather – and as the days get shorter and colder, our food
preferences shift.
Here, chefs share the warming, comforting
puddings they’ll be cooking up this autumn and winter…
1. Nadiya Hussain
“It’s got to be sticky toffee pudding,
hasn’t it?” says Nadiya Hussain.
“Sticky toffee pudding with dates. I like
to add a little bit of star anise and orange in my sticky toffee pudding, and I
like to serve it with cold ice cream.”
Nadiya’s Everyday Baking by Nadiya
Hussain (Michael Joseph)
2. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
“It’s definitely a good time for those
cockle-warming dishes,” agrees Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
“I always love a crumble – we’ve already
had quite a few crumbles since the blackberries and apples have been [in
season], but I’m also really looking forward to cobblers – which is, if anything,
even easier than a crumble, because the cobbler dough comes together really
well.”
River Cottage Good Comfort by Hugh
Fearnley-Whittingstall (Bloomsbury)
3. Yotam Ottolenghi and Noor Murad
For both Yotam Ottolenghi and Noor Murad,
it’s all about sweet, spiced fruit.
“I like to cook fruit, and now there are
really nice plums and blackberries, so I often make crisps and crumbles,” says
Ottolenghi. “I always have a container with cooked fruit in the fridge, [for]
the kids to put on their yoghurt in the morning.
“We’ve just had apricots, but they’re
gone now – but plums are in [season], and for me, this is the beginning of
winter. Cinnamon, star anise, some brown sugar, plums and blackberries. It’s a
slow roast that sits there [in the oven] – it’s really perfect. You can eat it
warm, but it’s also really nice fridge cold.”
For Murad, one fruit reigns supreme. “I
love apples, I eat them every day and I love cooked apples,” she says. “My mum
says when she was pregnant with me, she used to stew apples and eat them a lot”
– which might be why Murad loves them so much. This season, she’ll be keeping
it simple and satisfying her cravings with apple crumble.
Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Extra Good
Things by Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press)
4. Gino D’Acampo
Despite his Italian roots, Gino D’Acampo
favours something a bit more British as a sweet treat at this time of year.
“Well, it’s an English pudding – but I
made it Italian,” he admits. “I’m a huge fan of bread-and-butter pudding – done
well. Proper custard, raisins, fruit and stuff life that. The only difference
is instead of using bread, I use panettone – the Italian Christmas cake, which
nowadays you can buy all year round.
“I picked the best English recipe and the
best Christmas cake in Italy, and I make what I call a panettone and butter
pudding.”
Gino’s Italy: Like Mamma Used to Make By
Gino D’Acampo (Bloomsbury)
5. Melissa Thompson
Food writer Melissa Thompson recently
found herself in Wales for the Abergavenny Food Festival, and she visited her
partner’s family while she was there.
“They have loads of pear trees, and pears
are my top five – if not top three – fruit. I love pears so much – Conference
pears are my favourite,” Thompson enthuses.
“They gave us a load of pears, and Kate
[Thompson’s partner] made this – it was meant to be a pear crumble, and she
thought she’d messed up the topping, because she did flour and sugar, but then
she also added ground almonds to it.
“When she blended it up, the fat in the
almonds made it almost into a dough. It baked beautifully, and I would happily
eat that every week from here until May, with custard or ice cream.”
Motherland by Melissa Thompson
(Bloomsbury)
6. Tom Kerridge
Tom Kerridge is craving something fruity
from his new cookbook.
“As we we’re in autumn, you always want
something that’s a little bit more cakey and warming,” he says. “There’s a
lovely, spiced pear and caramel upside-down cake [in the book], a bit like a
pineapple upside down cake, but using spice pears. That’s a delicious one.”
Real Life Recipes by Tom Kerridge
(Bloomsbury Absolute)
7. Rukmini Iyer
Like D’Acampo, Rukmini Iyer likes to give
a classic bread and butter pudding a twist – this time, by injecting Indian
flavours.
She uses “saffron and cardamom and
blackberries” in hers, saying: “You can use any seasonal fruit – you can use
figs, you can use raspberries. You can make an amazing saffron infused milk –
it makes a really easy custard, so you don’t need to make full custard, [just]
your saffron milk with some eggs.
“Pour it all over, I use brioche, put the
fruit and then pistachios on top to make it nice and crunchy. It’s so tasty.
Put it in a tin in the oven – you can even arrange the bread nicely, or just
chuck it in.”
India Express: Fresh And Delicious
Recipes For Every Day by Rukmini Iyer (Square Peg)