Passato perfetto

Lately, many of us are wondering whatever happened to “the good old days” (which in truth often weren’t all that great, but at least they did seem calmer). If you find yourself reflecting on simpler times and feel as though you would like to turn back the clock, I have a suggestion for you. There’s no need for a time machine. Just head to the Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois in Rochefort, a city on the Charente river in southwestern France.

The “Museum of the Shops of Other Times” is the brainchild of a French couple who in the 1980s began collecting items from the early 20th century. When they were not working at their jobs, Christine and Jean-François began to use their free time to search for objects related to different trades and crafts. They started small and then moved on to larger items like furniture. The two added all sorts of advertising materials, enamel plates, and posters to their cache, eventually collecting thousands of objects. The result was a breathtaking treasure trove of amazing memorabilia.

By 1988, Jean-François and Christine’s stash had grown to the extent that they clearly needed more space. That is when they got the idea (considered a crazy scheme by many) to display all the items in a single building, so their dream of sharing the bounty with others could be accomplished. A search began in earnest. In the center of the town of Rochefort, they finally found the perfect locale in a combination hardware store and warehouse dating from 1900. In 1989 they proudly opened to the public a multi-level museum comprising more than 10,000 square feet.

Inside of it, they have arranged the pieces of their collection in their original context: a dentist’s office with the appropriate instruments in addition to an intimidating chair bearing a sign in French reading, “Still have your tonsils? Have a seat, the doctor is on his way.” There is a millinery store with period hats, and an old-fashioned schoolroom complete with an impressive chalkboard and clothing worn by a student of a bygone era. At one of the well-worn wooden desks I stumbled across my husband, studiously completing an assignment.

Twenty shops fill the building’s four floors. In addition to those mentioned above, among them are a barber shop, a smithy with traditional blacksmith tools, a pharmacy, a garage, a doctor’s office, a photography studio with original Kodak boxes of film, and a bar/café with an antique radio and Foosball table. Walls are covered everywhere with classic enamel signs and advertisements. Wooden shelves are filled with authentic bottles and boxes, cartons and cans, of products from the past, from liquors to laundry detergents. Remember Pez candy? Evening in Paris eau de cologne? A visit here is quite literally a feast for the senses for any nostalgia buff.

Experience

There is such a great deal to experience—and a gift shop to peruse as well—that you can easily surpass the recommended sixty to ninety minutes for a visit. Spring and autumn hours are Monday through Saturday from 10 am to noon and 2 pm to 7 pm, and Sundays 2 pm to 7 pm. They are open every day in July and August from 10 am to 8 pm. Closed December 25 and the month of January. Entry for adults including seniors is €6.90; disabled (access provided) €5.90; students and children ages 8-12 €4.50. Under the age of 8 admission is complimentary, and pets are welcome. Telephone: +33 5 46 83 91 50.

Rochefort is a two-hour train ride from Bordeaux, so if you’re planning an excursion in wine country, you might want to consider a side trip to this town so important in France’s maritime history. Stay a night or two at the ibis Rochefort or The Originals Boutique Hôtel Roca-Fortis in the center of town. After visiting the Musée des Commerces, cross the street to have lunch or dinner at vegetarian-friendly Maison des Crêpes. Definitely take time to check out a number of maritime attractions, like the Museum of the Ancient School of Naval Medicine, and perhaps indulge yourself at one of the region’s retreats like Océane Spa Royan.

Finally, if you want to truly get a feel for the area, look into river tourism on the Charente. You won’t be disappointed.

Native New Yorker Tricia Pimental left the US in 2012, later becoming International Living’s first Portugal Correspondent. The award-winning author and her husband, now Portuguese citizens, currently live in Coimbra.

Tricia Pimental